FAQ’s

While it isn’t a requirement to have a dress code for your commercial aquapark, it is helpful to note that certain clothing items can potentially damage your park.

Generally speaking, water-based sports specific clothing is not an issue, but metal hardware or accents on “streetwear” type of clothing can potentially be problematic. Swimwear rivets are designed for active use and should be OK; some rivets, such as those found on blue jeans, might be an issue, as well as some metal zippers. Rings, watches and other metal jewelry are the biggest dangers to products and safety. 

A good rule of thumb is to encourage water-specific clothing such as bathing suits or wet suits, or non-cotton athletic clothing such as leggings and synthetics. These guidelines will not only keep your park pieces safe from metal zippers and rivets, but will also keep park users warmer and happier. 

Both the Launch Bag and Blast Bag can be used on approved Aquaglide products (see below). They both require an elevated jumping platform and safe transition to product, and cannot be used places such as docks or boats.

The Launch Bag and Blast Bag fit the same products and can be substituted for one another. 

Launch Bag – Designed for Designed for Ricochet 12.0 & 16.0, Recoil 14.0 & 17.0, Rebound 12, 16, 20, Supertramp 14, 17, 23, 27, Spire 6.8, Jungle Jim, Jungle Joe 2, King of the Mountain,
Quarterback, Freefall Supreme, Everest.

Blast Bag – Designed for Ricochet 12.0 & 16.0, Recoil 14.0 & 17.0, Rebound 12, 16, 20, Supertramp 14, 17, 23, 27, Spire 6.8, Jungle Jim, Jungle Joe 2, King of the Mountain,
Quarterback, Freefall Supreme, Everest.

Each trampoline and bouncer in the Aquaglide line-up has differing jump surface sizes. To compare, view the below graphic (click to download a full-size version).

We specify our suggested anchor weights conservatively, and for global conditions. We recommend flexible vertical mooring lines with bungie to absorb the rise and fall, but we prefer to keep moorings close to a 1:1 ratio (length to water depth). Snug vertical moorings help prevent the park item(s) from sailing away from (and over) swimmers when winds rise, but they also require greater weight to be effective in severe conditions.

Although we suggest homeowners and park operators remove park item(s) in the event of a storm, most do not. Therefore, we consider what it will take to hold park item(s) in place during severe conditions with significant swell and possibly a storm surge. Of course, mooring needs will depend on the specifics of each location. Experienced folks will know best about the specific requirements for each area. While our suggested weights are not mandatory, they are a dependable reference point. We have never heard anyone complain about their park item(s) staying in place, but we’ve seen many a trampoline floating down the lake after a storm.

Last point, it’s no problem to use smaller weights, grouped together to one mooring line. This makes handling anchors easier, but ensures adequate holding as long as the suggested weight is met.

Absolutely! We will work worth you to build the park of your dreams. If you’d like to explore the possibilities before talking with an Aquaglide team member, you can build test parks in our 3D Park Builder. 

The 1m vertical mooring and 2m vertical mooring are single mooring lines for anchoring aquapark pieces in place. These moorings are distinct from the Complete Mooring Line Kit and Vertical Mooring Line systems because they are only the mooring line, and require purchase of additional items. 

Suggested Additional Mooring Components:

• 1/2” Nylon Double Braid Rope

• 3/8” Snap Hook OR Quick Link – #316 Stainless

• Zip Ties – used to secure tail of rope after knotting

• 5” x 9” Rope Float, .75” diameter

Once you have acquired the additional components, you can begin assembling your mooring line. 

Mooring Line Assembly:

1. Open 1pc Aquaglide 1-Meter Mooring (bungie).
2. Remove Carabiner and small foam float.
3. Position chain and galvanized quick link at bottom.
4. Cut 1/2” Nylon braided rope to length required to reach surface.
   • Use heated rope cutter or tape & burn ends
   • Allow minimum 13” on each end for bowline knot & loop
5. Tie nylon rope to top ring of 1-Meter Mooring (bungie) using a bowline knot (see below for how to tie a bowline knot). Secure end w/ zip tie.
6. Thread 1pc Rope Float onto top of nylon rope.
7. Tie another bowline knot to 1pc Stainless quick link at top of rope. This should secure rope float to mooring line and be ready to float. Do not secure with zip tie. See step 9.
8. Secure mooring line to anchor eye using chain and galvanized quick link. This may be done before or after dropping anchor in place. If after, a diver may be required.
9. Once (max) water level is established it may be necessary to adjust length of mooring line for various depths. Do this by boat. Push rope float down rope to water level and re-tie loop at top to secure. Cut & burn rope if necessary and secure tail with zip tie.
    

The complete mooring system will look as follows:

How to Tie a Bowline

We offer two mooring kit options – the Vertical Mooring Line and the Complete Mooring Line. Both of these products include the necessary snap hook, buoy, quick link, and braided bungie necessary to set up a mooring line. The Adjustable Complete Mooring Line Kit also comes with segmented rope sections up to 19 feet. 

The Vertical Mooring is a mooring line set for a water depth of 4 ft (1.2m). Its best value is when installing aquapark mooring fields with tens or hundreds of moorings.

For any water depths over 4 ft (1.2m), rope segments can be added to extend the mooring length (requires purchase of additional rope segments, sold singly, or in sets of 10pc).

The AG Complete Mooring is a complete mooring line for water depths from 4 ft up to 19 ft (1.2m – 5.8m). Easily adjust by removing provided rope segments until proper length is reached.

How to adjust line length

Buoy should float at the surface with little or no slack. This can be achieved in the water (after anchor is set), or by careful measurement beforehand.

The top loop should be ideally positioned 6 in – 18 in [15cm – 45cm] above water when anchor is set. Adjust by adding (Vertical Mooring) or removing (Complete Mooring) rope segments until proper length is reached.

1. First, remove stainless snap hook and buoy at the top of the mooring line.

   

2. To add segments, thread additional rope segment through top loop of mooring line.
3. Next, thread rope segment through its own loop, creating a larkshead connection. To remove line segments, simply loosen the larkshead and pull unwanted segment through.
4. Once adjusted to proper length, replace buoy.

   

5. Thread rope-end through buoy with twisting motion.
6. Then re-attach stainless snap hook.

   

The completed mooring connects to park item using snap hook connected to anchor ring. Secure the hook with locking nut (finger tight).

Please contact our customer service team at info@waterwarriorservices.com. We will be happy to pass your inquiry on to our sales team so that they can arrange a call with you!

• Deflate the product, preferably using the reverse mode of an electric pump or shop vacuum, ensuring that all air is removed.
• Fold the inflatable into the desired storage width (usually into thirds) and roll it up.
• Wrap the inflatable in a protective cover, such as a tarp, and secure tightly with rope or straps.
• Store the product out of direct sunlight and protected from the environment in a clean, dry place. It is best to store it inside a closed container with moth balls to prevent rodent damage.  
• Never store in a damp location or directly on concrete.
• Never store at temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (5 degrees Celsius) or in an area with broad temperature fluctuations.

The bridles are intentionally different lengths to allow the trampoline to flag and rotate with the wind on the bridle. The longer bridle arms give the tramp leverage to rotate the swivel instead of twisting up the bridles. When the bridles are the same length, the bridle twists up. The bridle should be installed with alternating colors – so the two blues are across from one another, and the two blacks are across from one another. There are 4 anchor ring connection points on the bottom of the trampoline that these bridle arms connect to.

Each ‘connector’ item includes the necessary straps – usually ten straps. The below diagram shows how to attach the straps and connect items.

Here are a few tips that may help:

• Straps are best attached to the ‘Connector’ items (Swimstep, Speedway, Splashmat, etc). This is why these connectors ship with Vario straps.
• Attach straps where a connection will be needed – do this on land, before launching the connector item.
  • Note: you will typically need connections only on 2 sides. Refer to your park diagram to confirm where connections are needed.
• Don’t skip straps. Always use all the straps required for a full connection. The standard is 5 straps in a row.
• When attaching the strap, make sure the buckle is facing down, rather than facing up. Push the buckle and strap trough the webbing loop and cinch.
• Anchor large ‘feature’ items first, then float connector (with straps) into position.
• It is easier to begin a 5-strap connection at the center ring, then work outward connecting loosely
• The buckle has an extra ‘button’ to prevent tampering and meet ISO guidelines.
• First press the button, then the lever. Once the lever is pressed, it is no longer necessary to hold the button.
• Once all 5 straps are connecting a Swimstep to a feature item, dive beneath and pull each strap tight. This may take a few dives at first, until you get the system.
• The finished connection should have 5 straps pulled tight with no space or gap between items (0mm, as shown in the final panel).
• Although it is not necessary, you can wrap the ‘tail’ of the strap around itself to prevent it from hanging down. 

This process seems complicated at first but goes quickly as it becomes familiar. In the end, it provides a solid, tamper-resistant connection with no Velcro to wear out or injure park users.

When storing your aquapark pieces away for the off-season, you want to remove all of the air. The best way to accomplish this is by using the reverse mode of an electric pump to ensure that all air is removed.

Launcher position is critical! For best results try sitting directly between the handles. Sitting too far forward results in low launches. Sitting too far back results in launches without forward projection, potentially causing collision with Jumper.

Jumper landing zone is also critical. The jumper should aim to plant their butt directly over end of wedge, approximately 3ft (1m) from inward end of bag. Landing in center of bag yields poor results and may cause collision with Launcher. Jumper should land in sideways sitting position. Landing on feet, front, or with legs split results in sub-standard launches.

A large wooden or plastic bin is suitable for storing aquapark products. If you are a DIY’er, you can make a storage bin out of 2×2 or 2×4 plywood – just make sure there are no exposed nails/screws that could damage the inflatable. We also advise that the container have a lid to keep out small critters if they are common in your area.

Each ‘connector’ item includes the necessary straps – usually ten straps. The below diagram shows how to attach the straps and connect items.

Here are a few tips that may help:

• Straps are best attached to the ‘Connector’ items (Swimstep, Speedway, Splashmat, etc). This is why these connectors ship with Vario straps.
• Attach straps where a connection will be needed – do this on land, before launching the connector item.
  • Note: you will typically need connections only on 2 sides. Refer to your park diagram to confirm where connections are needed.
• Don’t skip straps. Always use all the straps required for a full connection. The standard is 5 straps in a row.
• When attaching the strap, make sure the buckle is facing down, rather than facing up. Push the buckle and strap trough the webbing loop and cinch.
• Anchor large ‘feature’ items first, then float connector (with straps) into position.
• It is easier to begin a 5-strap connection at the center ring, then work outward connecting loosely
• The buckle has an extra ‘button’ to prevent tampering and meet ISO guidelines.
• First press the button, then the lever. Once the lever is pressed, it is no longer necessary to hold the button.
• Once all 5 straps are connecting a Swimstep to a feature item, dive beneath and pull each strap tight. This may take a few dives at first, until you get the system.
• The finished connection should have 5 straps pulled tight with no space or gap between items (0mm, as shown in the final panel).
• Although it is not necessary, you can wrap the ‘tail’ of the strap around itself to prevent it from hanging down. 

This process seems complicated at first but goes quickly as it becomes familiar. In the end, it provides a solid, tamper-resistant connection with no Velcro to wear out or injure park users.

1. Straps should first be attached to ‘Connector’ items (example: Swimstep, Splashmat, Speedway, Breezeway or Deck) only where a connection is needed. Your configuration determines how many straps are needed; you may use all, some, or none of the straps supplied.
2. ‘Connector’ items generally go between or attach to feature items. Connectors should not be attached to other connectors.
3. Use all available rings to make connection. Standard connections use 5 rings. Some items use 3 or occasionally 7 rings/ straps.
4. After launch, float ‘Connector’ with necessary straps attached into desired position. Note: a matching set of connecting rings is required on feature item.
5. Attach center strap to center ring on feature item. Connect loosely, then work outward until all straps are connected.
6. Dive beneath to tighten all straps securely. Dive mask and several attempts may be required. Make sure connection is tight and there is NO GAP between items. Failure to connect items properly may result in injury or death.

For aquapark items it is helpful to think in terms of mooring rather than anchoring. Aquapark items are large and can move a lot even in a light breeze. It is important to keep items in place to ensure swimmers reach them safely. Therefore, we recommend using a 1:1 ratio of anchor line to depth ratio and a flexible heavy duty braided bungie to give some flexibility for waves and water level changes. We also recommend heavy weighted mooring blocks, ground screws or earth anchors.

Weighted mooring blocks can be sourced from dock and mooring professionals in your region or homemade by you using built or purchased forms. Sonotube makes an excellent pre-fabricated form system that contains no harmful chemicals and is biodegradable. Sonotubes are widely available – you can contact Sonotube’s customer service at 888-766-8823 to find the nearest distributor. Some prefer to make their own forms using a wooden grid, old car tires, or 50-gallon barrels. Home poured moorings typically use bent rebar (omega-shaped) or metal anchor eyes to reinforce them and make an attachment point.

Poured concrete weighs 4050 lbs. / cubic yard. In metric terms 1837 kg / 765 L, or 2.4 kg / 1 Liter. Some weighted anchor examples:

• 30” diameter Sonotube w/ poured concrete; 30” x 9” = 551.7 lbs. (250 kg)
• 30” diameter Sonotube w/ poured concrete; 30” x 18” = 1103 lbs. (500 kg)
• Square block w/ poured concrete, 24” x 24” x 18” = 900 lbs. (408 kg)
• Square block w/ poured concrete, 24” x 24” x 24” = 1200 lbs. (544 kg)
• 50-Gallon barrel w/ poured concrete = 1166 lbs. (529 kg)

Mooring blocks made with Sonotube forms and rebar:

Mooring blocks made with wooden forms and rebar:

For DIY mooring blocks, requesting leftover concrete from construction pours or self-mix concrete bags are simple ways to save cost. Several smaller blocks can be lashed together with chain, which are easier to move, but may require a diver.

In areas with dense silt or sand and no rocks, ground screws can be installed to achieve similar holding strength. This option typically requires a diver.

Professional earth anchor systems such as Platipus can also be used in most any situation to achieve adequate holding strength. These systems can be professionally installed by earth anchor contractors or by DIY, and may require a diver.

Please reference the owner’s manual for the item you wish to anchor. Proper anchoring is essential to the safety and performance of all commercial and residential products. The use of professional anchoring services is recommended. If improperly anchored, our product can move and/or float away. Aquaglide is not responsible for damage, injury, or loss due to improper anchoring.

Using the Vario-Lock cinch strap you can connect multiple products together and build your own Aquapark.

Use a manometer pressure gauge for a more precise control of the air pressure.

You can calculate the minimum water depth using the following formula:

Height of product (cm) + Average Height of a Person (186cm) / 2

Example:

Jungle Jim 

(L 3m x W 2,7m x H 2,1m)

210 + 186 / 2 = 198 cm

Water depth, if It’s an Aquapark for pool, open sea or whitewater. If it’s for commercial use or personal use. We can build custom aquaparks according to your needs.

Send us an email and we can help you.

1. Place the product in a safe place with no sharp objects (rocks, glass, etc).
2. Inflate the product as usual.
3. Inspect the valve. Make sure the valve plug is not the source of leaking air before inspecting the entire product.
4. Add a little liquid dish soap to a spray bottle of warm water. Mix thoroughly to ensure that you can get an even amount of soap across the whole mattress.
5. Spray around the valve first. Escaping air will cause bubbles to form on the surface.
6. Spray the surface of the product systematically. Start with the seams, followed by the rest of the product.
7. Mark the leak with a marker once you locate it.

You can purchase Aquaglide products here.

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